Friday, March 25, 2011

Ciao Catania


 My arrival started with a proud moment.  I asked the bus driver to leave me at a stop close to the Elephant.  Perfectly upright with my pride, I wished the bus driver well and went to the luggage compartment to get my bags.  The luggage routine was the same wobbling overwhelming experience but now it is heightened by sliding gear attached to the exterior of my rolling bag.  the concept was going to work but the burden too great and nothing slippery.  When I hauled the rolling bag to the ground,  my bungies parted and some of my things slid to the ground.  I laughed at the ridiculousness of this situation, arriving on the bumpy sidewalk, my backpack half on bent over to gather my things, I nearly fell forward on my face.  This made me laugh even more.  I quickly sprung to my former perpendicular position and was greeted, surprisingly by this man.

"Dove lei viene da?  (Where did you come from?) He asked smiling.


"Il cielo" (heaven) I replied impulsively.  Maybe this guy did not see the bus?

"Lo so.  Lo so."  i know i know.

"Ah oh" I thought.  Well pretty quickly a business card was out of his wallet, his cell phone number was scribbled on it and he was emphatically stating.  "I always answer this one."  Ah it is your pussy line.  I thought.  Italian men sometimes have three phones;  one for work, one for their wives and family and a third for their mistress.  I learned this from an Italian man with three phones.  He was just a friend and I did not have any of his numbers, just for the record.   I was thinking I was probably given the third by the famished look in his eyes.   I am finally beginning to recognize the look of hunger, it is similar to just been slapped or a look of surprise, like something really dreamy just happened.  I don't mind it.  I do wonder what really gorgeous girls have to do here.  I think they don't make much eye contact, travel often in groups or are with very protective men.  He as a little hard to shake but still it was better being greeted by him than screaming women that were completely incomprehensable and very angry.
 
"What do you do here in Sicilia?"  he asked in italian.

"I work on farms and agriturismos."  I answered in italian.

"What do you do here in Catania?" 

"Well I would like to go to Mt. Etnea and I would like to see the church where St. Agatha was a prisoner.  I am not sure yet.   I am only here for a few days."

I take you.  I take you to many lovely places.  I know many people who have restaurants,  We will eat very good food and drink very good wine.  I am a journalist.  This is very  good.  i know a lot of people.   Do you like music?  You like jazz? I know where there is a place for beautiful music.

"Sure you do." I thought, smiling at the absurdity of all of this.  Sweat beads are fulling formed on my upperlip and my face is shiny with sweat and this guy is relentless.  I am understanding what he is saying which is very exciting.  I am speaking very slowly and he is understanding what I am saying.  I am assuming, maybe like Isabella my dog, I could say anything as long as it sounds sweet and I am smiling, she still always wags, as did he.  Remembering that someday down the road this will  no happen anymore, I stay patient.

"Okay I will call you after I get checked in."  I know this is a lie but I gave up believing in hell a long time ago.

"Where do you stay."

Crap. Okay try the keep smiling manuvuer than go for the diversion technique.

"I don't remember the name of it but I remember where it is."  Feeling clever.

"I will take you?, we go together."

"No no."  Oh I am so bad at this stuff.   "I have many things to do before I go to the hotel, especially if we will go be visiting more of Sicily than I thought.  He raised his brows and looked at my luggage.  I don't think he believed me but thank God he was satisfied with the idea that I would call him later that day. 

I never called.  Even if he was a foot taller and 15 years younger I still would not have called, but I was inspired by his confidence and his ability to try to believe in and pursue the unexpected when he thought it could potentially bring him intense pleasure.  Maybe I am a little like that too but in a very very very different way.

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